How to Stencil a Tabletop Step by Step DIY
Today I wanted to share a little weekend DIY project of how to stencil a tabletop with easy to follow step by step instructions.
This was such an easy weekend DIY project that I felt like I just had to share the step by step instructions on how I stenciled this very plain everyday tabletop, and created a one of kind piece of art for my home. Check out these before pictures, this was a basic, nothing special, kitchen table we picked for $200 at Walmart, around 8 years ago while still living in our other home. The table was very small for this house, so we made it a coffee table in our great room between two revolving chairs; which is the perfect spot for morning coffee and wildlife gazing. Actually we had added a different top to the base, it was a little larger and gray and we picked it up at the Ballards Outlet near our home. Needless to say, I had grown tired of this table and felt like it no longer matched when we added our new Deconstructed Sofa that we just created for our living room. I felt like it needed a fresh look, so we reinstalled the original top back on to the table and I got to painting.
*Please note that I was compensated for this post. This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. These involve no extra cost to you, but may result in me receiving a small commission should you decide to purchase after clicking on my links – for which I am very grateful! You can view my full advertising disclosure here.
THE BEFORE PICTURES:
The first step was to paint a base coat of white chalk paint on to the entire piece of furniture. I decided to try a new paint to market for this project by Behr, and I have to say I was relatively impressed with the results. I used a Farmhouse White color and lightly coated the entire table with the chalk paint. If you have never used chalk paint before, it is the most forgiving of furniture paints and you can pretty much slap it on any old way for a rustic look and do okay. It does not require a lot of pre-sanding or roughing of the furniture either which is such a timesaver.
However, I was creating a wood grain pattern by leaving a little bit of the black below showing through. So, I was very aware of how I was applying the paint and creating the pattern. As you can see, I have left definite grain patterns with my brush when I applied the paint and almost dry brushed it out to make the feathered effect of wood, which you can see below. This will all look a whole lot better after I apply the final wax layer at the end, so you have to think ahead. This is my prior proper planning motto, that I love to preach so much, it really applies to everything.
Once you have allowed the first layer to dry for several hours, or overnight, you can go on to your stencil layer. I got this amazing stencil from my friends at Cutting Edge Stencils. They have the best selection of Mandala Patterns hands down. This one is the Bellis 36×36 size, which is absolutely perfect for a kitchen table application.
When adding a stencil to a round table, the first thing you will want to do is make sure that is is centered on the table. For this stencil, at 36”x36” we wanted to a have 3 1/4″ border all the way around the outside edge of the pattern.
Make sure that you secure the stencil with an easy release paint tape, we all know which kind I like, the blue one, lol. Then assemble your supplies, I like to have a paper plate to off load my stencil brush of extra paint. For this part of the painting, I am using my old stand by and favorite Chalk Paint Amy Howard, thank goodness I will not need much, as I do not have much left and my poor can looks as if I have beaten it with in an inch of its life…lol. However, Selznick Grey is my absolute favorite and I will link it at the bottom for easy shop-ability.
Once you get the stencil taped you can apply your paint. Make sure you are tamping the brush or pouncing; which keeps the paint from running under the edges of the stencil and prevents bleeding. You can also use a spray mount adhesive, but since this was a top table I did not want to leave any residue. However, I do find that if you allow your paint to get a little thicker it tends not to bleed as much as a looser, newer paint. That is just my experience.
Once you have filled all the segments of the stencil, promptly remove the stencil to make sure there is not any line bleed. If you do this quickly, you can still catch the paint while it is wet and remove any unwanted lines, which is another tip. So you want to be quick, but accurate, not messy. Now I am starting to sound like Martha Stewart… I mean the woman has a point…lol.
Now here is the cool part…. and why the variety of the Mandala’s were so important to me, look at how this looks with my living room rug. Yep I would say it is a match!
So you are going to want to let the stencil paint completely dry for 2-5 hours prior to applying the antique sealing wax, which is going to change the color of this piece completely. So at this point, if you have never done this I recommend testing the wax on something other than your beautiful piece of furniture to make sure you like the color change. Also to see how long you want it sit or how thick to apply it.
Okay so my five hours have gone by and I am now antiquing this piece. I am using the Walnut Wax from Behr. I am basically brushing it on and than buffing it off, you can see the base is still dark and has not been buffed yet while the top has already been buffed. Plus it is a little dark since it is now night time, so my pictures may appear a little bit darker as well.
Here is a look at the table the very next day in the light. You can see it is not as white as before, but it has a nice wood grain texture that appears to look more gray than black, which was the base color.
I am so happy with the way this project turned out. Not only do I have a brand new table that I love, I did not have to go shopping and searching for something that I love, and that would fit the the space. Sometimes we already have the right piece, it just needs a little refresher, just like this piece, and in all honesty it is not like it was a high end expensive piece to begin with, but it was solid wood and could be painted.
The shape is a classic shape that looks just like anything brand new out on the market right now, which goes with my original motto of good design never goes out of style it is a way of life. If you choose wisely when buying your furnishings they really can last you a lifetime, no matter how the trends and designs may change.
Solid wood pieces are always investments, soft goods are not and never will be unfortunately, because they will always deteriorate over time and have a limited shelf life. Just a little food for thought as you decide on purchasing those really expensive custom drapes or designer rugs and pillows.
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* This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. These involve no extra cost to you, but may result in me receiving a small commission should you decide to purchase after clicking on my links – for which I am very grateful! You can view my full advertising disclosure here.